Kevin,4140 is a low alloy steel and is pretty easy to weld. If you choose to have the frame re-hardened and blued, you'll need to use a carbon steel rod (not stainless). An article on how to TIG weld 4140 that discusses the type of rod and techniques. I welded up the frame on one of my 1911's years ago (maybe 20?) and re-machined the entire slide. It was left it as welded and not re-hardened. It is shot regularly and has held up well over the years, so hardening it doesn't seem to be necessary for reasonable durability.Tom. Kevin,4140 is a low alloy steel and is pretty easy to weld.
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If you choose to have the frame re-hardened and blued, you'll need to use a carbon steel rod (not stainless). An article on how to TIG weld 4140 that discusses the type of rod and techniques. I welded up the frame on one of my 1911's years ago (maybe 20?) and re-machined the entire slide. It was left it as welded and not re-hardened. It is shot regularly and has held up well over the years, so hardening it doesn't seem to be necessary for reasonable durability.Tom.
Kevin,That's the nice thing about a semi-auto, Unlike in a revolver or single shot, most of the energy is absorbed by the action not the frame. Consequently you could make the frame out of aluminum if you want and it would work perfectly well. In fact, aluminum frames are available and quite popular for the 1911.
Machining one out of 7075 is even on my project list as soon as it gets to a manageable level, but there are a few other guns that I need to finish first.That is a good welding site and Jodie Collier, the guy who owns it, will even answer your questions if you email him.Tom. Kevin,That's the nice thing about a semi-auto, Unlike in a revolver or single shot, most of the energy is absorbed by the action not the frame. Consequently you could make the frame out of aluminum if you want and it would work perfectly well.
![Gahimer Gahimer](http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/giant_pinhead/Pistols/IMG_1729.jpg)
In fact, aluminum frames are available and quite popular for the 1911. Machining one out of 7075 is even on my project list as soon as it gets to a manageable level, but there are a few other guns that I need to finish first.That is a good welding site and Jodie Collier, the guy who owns it, will even answer your questions if you email him.Tom. Holy cripes Tom, that's some awesome work. I've only made it through the first page and feel the compulsion to go out to the shop and actually get something done, ha!I know what you mean about stuff being made before cnc. I think the thing that impressed me most about cncguns website was just how many steps were involved. My impression of cnc machining has come from watching the 5 axis mill videos on youtube, though I know lathes and mills have the capability.
![Expert Expert](http://www.fototime.com/%7B42272D19-6D5C-457D-BEE9-F16F4375E907%7D/origpict/M1911-M1911A1.jpg)
I guess I didn't realize production on a regular cnc mill actually involved about as many steps as a manual mill would. One of my first inklings of possibly making a gun was probably 15 years ago reading Leon Uris' 'Trinity'. It talked about the Irish blacksmith making a revolver and feeling the cylinder rotate to check the timing.I'll definitely get through the rest of your Steven's Favorite as time allows. Very nice work, thanks for pointing that out. That is true for dedicated production machines, but some machines are capable of conversational programming where you can program using a high level language right at the machine. I worked as a research machinist for a company that had a Hurco KMB1 which had that capability and all it was used for was one off parts. It could be programmed and used to machine a part with lots of contours and hole patterns in about a tenth the time as it would take to make on a rotary table.
Wish I still had it.Tom. Looks pristine, my only caveat would be to not wear it out cleaning it. I have a friend that's a master bullseye shooter that wore out his Les Baer wad gun because he was a bit compulsive about cleaning. Of course I don't think he'd made master in just a few years without that aspect of his character (I've been in the great waiting room of expert for about 10 years now, ha!). But then his gun had a full length guide rod and he had to take the bushing off with the barrel in battery. Made me consider a bushing wrench that's open at the bottom and the handle comes from the top. That's on the list of roundtoits as well.
Looks pristine, my only caveat would be to not wear it out cleaning it. I have a friend that's a master bullseye shooter that wore out his Les Baer wad gun because he was a bit compulsive about cleaning. Of course I don't think he'd made master in just a few years without that aspect of his character (I've been in the great waiting room of expert for about 10 years now, ha!). But then his gun had a full length guide rod and he had to take the bushing off with the barrel in battery.
Made me consider a bushing wrench that's open at the bottom and the handle comes from the top. That's on the list of roundtoits as well.
Kevin,I think that extreme caution should be excercised when attempting to weld on a weapon. Guns are exposed to rather abrupt loads that are rated in the thousands of PSI and a weld failure or heat related failure could cause injury or death. I am a retired welder and heavy truck mechanic and I would be very very carefull of attemting to repair such wear. I would be afraid of altering the metals structure when I added filler and cause a weakness in the material. I am not a gun smith or have experience with that type of wear, but it sounds like a very risky repair to undertake, especially if a new part can be had for replacement.
I would definately consult the manufacturers authorized repairs list and see if it is an approved repair first. Then I would make certain I understood the exact procedure and had all of the required equipment in place before I attempted the job.
I am not trying to discourage, just hopefully prevent an accident or disaster.Bob. I appreciate your caution Bob, but the rails on a 1911 simply guide the slide as the weapon cycles.
They don't have to withstand any of the pressures developed by the gasses in the chamber like the barrel or to some extent the slide. As I pointed out, many 1911 slides are even made from aluminum, so even an unhardened steel rail (as in one that has been welded) will be much stronger. There is no hazard in welding on a 1911 rail other than the possibility of screwing it up, and even that can be repaired by additional welding. Now welding on the receiver of a revolver or any non-semiautomatic firearm is an entirely different story.
In that case you had better know what you are doing because once welded, the receiver will need to be re-heat treated to original specs or risk catastrophic failure, i.e. A bomb in your face.Tom.
Index of M1911 andM1911A1 Manufactures(and links to examples of their work)This page has summary overviews of themanufacturing companies whom produced Model 1911 and Model 1911 A1s.